Myanmar

   
     Leaving Chiang Mai to reach Mae Sod, a border town to Myanmar.  Mae Sod is unlike any other town we have been to.  It is not a tourist attraction and all you will find here are western teachers, help organization workers and volunteers.  But we have actually come here to enter Myanmar.  We arrived late, so we are staying over night in a hotel and will make it to the border (another 7 km from here) in the morning. (remember, you can click on the pictures for a larger view)

   

Next morning, we arrive at the border.  We are not allowed to enter Myanmar with a vehicle, but are allowed to walk across the "Friendship Bridge" to Myawaddy,Myanmar. Quick check out at the Thailand Customs side where we are informed that we still have some days left of our Thailand visa and that we don’t have to leave just yet.  Andre assured her that we are aware of that but actually want to leave.  She does what she has to do and sends us on our way.  We have a little walk ahead of us now across the "Bridge", but why walk if you can drive??? Andre stopped a truck driver who agreed to drive us to the other side (it really isn't that long of a bridge, but hey...). So here we are...

  

   ... inside the cabin which had seen better days.  Before we even got started, we were stopped again... police.  The driver steps out of the truck... I am starting to not feel all that well now... after all, it’s Myanmar we’re talking about.   What's a real adventure without action, yes?  But, the truck driver enters the cabin again, looks at us, smiles real big and shakes his head... all is good, we can continue... a minute later, we are on the other side going through another control.  We thank the driver and are on our way.... Stepping into Myanmar… Customs control…

    We are called inside and asked to be seated while they recorded our passport information into their computer system.  Above the desk, two old white plastic clocks indicating Burmese and Thailand time.  There is only a half an hour time difference between Thailand and Myanmar (which I thought was quite interesting).  The clerk gives the passports over to another officer, who enters some information into a book, before returning the passes to us and wishes us on our way.  We turn towards the right to walk into Myanmar and are immediately stopped and pointed into the other direction.. back to Thailand.  Andre points into the direction of Myanmar, indicating that that's where we want to go.  The gentleman again points to Thailand and makes clear that that's the way we should go, to which Andre assures that fine gentleman that we really want to go the other direction.  We are called inside again and to please take a seat once more... Andre tells the officer that we intended to enter Myanmar...  clearly a misunderstanding as they are used to people come to the border to receive an exit and re-entry stamp to prolong their stay in Thailand.  Our passports have now both stamps inside which will not allow us into Myanmar anymore... but we still want to enter that country.  And thus....

  ..we have to surrender our passports, receiving a card in its place.  Now we are allowed to enter Myanmar... but only for two hours. So off we go, crossing into the unknown without a passport, only a #7 and #8 immigration card...  this ought to be interesting...

As we kept walking the streets we noticed that we have become quite the tourist attraction to them just as much as they were a tourist attraction to us.  We were the only Westerners as far as the eye could see.  It felt strange to be looked at like that.  Some smiled real big, others looked with a more serious facial expression and then there were those who actually said "Hello" and waved at us.  Interesting feeling really... And then... a man was beside himself with joy... he ran inside, grabbed his little kid, brought her outside for us to greed.

   He was so very happy, it was so wonderful to see and one could not help but smile with him.  It is interesting how much a book screws with ones mind.  Seeing him so happy, I could not help but wonder about many things.  The poverty displayed right there coupled with his happiness brought up a lot of questions.  A typical reaction is to feel sorry for the people for the way they have to live.. but in reality, as Andre pointed out, who are we to judge that?  Maybe they are legitimately happy and they are not missing anything.  Who are we to tell them that this is not how one should live?  Who are we to tell them that they have a bad life, a poor life?  They manage their lives just as we Westerners do... and looking at his smile, he is probably managing his life in a happier way then some Westerners do.  Would he be happier with a modern western car, a big house, a big paycheck, and a huge refrigerator in which he will keep food past the expiration date which he will in the end toss out?  Some Westerners aren't even happy with all the luxury they have, so why do we think that's what the rest of the world needs?  He looked happy and he didn't seem to be missing anything.  Those who do not carry his kind of smile and his sound of laughter, those are the ones missing something, no?  Regardless of their living conditions, if they can still smile like that, who are we to judge?  I don't know... I am the biggest hypocrite in this, I have to say.  Place a poor woman sitting on the street holding her hungry baby right in front of me and see what happens... I can't help but reach into the wallet...  Damn you, William Easterly!!!!!

Our two hours haven't come to an end yet, but someone was still quite nervous about having had to surrender his passport.  So we walk back ... a German needs to be with his Passport, what can I say?!  On my way towards the bridge I can't help but think about what I have just seen.  I think, thus far, Myanmar has made the greatest impact on me.  I am leaving with a strange feeling inside.  The smiles of the people do not stop as we pass them by... such a mixed feeling inside.. it is incredible and difficult to explain.  I definitely want to return and see more of this country.  Learn from the people.  And once again, just walk amongst them.  For now.. I have to say Goodbye and cross over to the bridge.. no truck awaits us for that one minute ride... so we are walking...

And would you believe it... on our way back, looking down from the bridge, you can see what separates Myanmar and Thailand and what's happening right there... some questionable activities... in which money changed hands followed by the exchange of some packed objects...

 This was our exciting day in Myanmar... or, exciting hour and a half I should say.  And I have my relaxed Andre back after they handed us our passports... it's the little things ;-)

Next stop... Ayutthaya... ancient trading grounds ;-) stay tuned, as always...